A Nelli Tree at Kabini: The Haunt of 'The Dream Team'

The Nelli tree will always have a few Langurs on it as its fruit is much favored by them. As they feed, they drop a lot of the fruit on the ground, thus enabling Spotted Deer to feed on them. Under every tree with Langurs on it, one will find Spotted Deer enjoying a meal that they cannot get to eat on their own.

Langurs at Kabini. Picture Courtesy: TNA Perumal

There is another interesting dimension to the relationship between Spotted Deer and Langurs. They team up to warn each other of approaching predators. The Langur is a primate and thus possesses colour vision. Primates have colour vision as they need to know when fruits are ripe enough to be eaten. Deer on the other hand, lack this capacity and are also poor in discriminating between motionless forms. Langurs can make up for this flaw as with their high perch, they can detect predators early and warn deer regarding them.

Beautiful Spotted Deer at Kabini

Deer have a very well-developed sense of smell and hearing, and they reciprocate by warning Langurs when they detect predators. Together, they make a formidable team! It is not surprising that a tiger is successful only once in ten attempts in making a kill!

A Naturalist on an Elephant at Orange County, Kabini

All these experiences only increased my love and fascination for these amazing pachyderms! I was excited to participate in most of the elephant research programs in the elephant country: Bandipur and Nagarahole. A few of these projects were with senior scientists, a few with the forest department and some were carried out by visiting MM hills, BR hills and various camps with a handful of enthusiasts. My love for elephants further grew when I heard about the struggle for survival that wild elephants had to undergo.

An Elephant Bathing at Orange County, Kabini

Eventually, with increasing age, I had to call it quits from my profession as a software engineer and return to my life with the elephants! I call this an ‘elephant’ life as there is no end to learning about them! One morning, I was woken from my dreams by a phone call from the HR department at Orange County, Kabini asking if I was willing to work as a Naturalist. I was excited and at once said, “Of course! When should I report?” As it was Kabini, and moreover Orange County, I had no second thoughts about my decision!

On my very first day at work, I was elated to spend time with a beautiful lady at the resort: Meenakshi – the resident elephant. We were both working at Orange County Resorts and fell in love with each other! I used to steal some sugarcane from the yard and bring them to her. It was interesting to watch her raise her trunk and widen her eyes each time I approached her. I owed a debt of a million thanks to this hotel group for finding me a ‘bride’. I loved observing her expressions! Although she was old, there was still some mischief left in her. One day, probably not in the mood for taking guests on rides, she chewed up the billing book! When the mahout is some distance away from her, she is always curious to know what is in the resort!

A Guest During an Elephant Ride at Orange County, Kabini

The resort is a great place to spend time with the most charismatic and evolved of God’s creatures – the elephant. This creature is indeed the gentlest, noblest, warmest and friendliest animal who has understood the unique selling point of our resort!

A Magnificent Tusker. Picture Courtesy: Mr. TNA Perumal

I once chanced upon a mother and her calf enjoying a private moment in the tiger’s pool, as they defied the afternoon sun by having a mud bath and quenching their thirst. At another time, we interrupted a family as they were having a go at the bamboo stalks! We patiently waited for them to cross the road. While the mother elephant was shepherding her calf, another one kept an eye on us, until the family was safely hidden behind the bushes.  We saw a pair of elephants locked in a fight, while a tusker attempted a mock charge at us, when the shutterbugs got on his nerves.

A Mother and a Calf. Picture Courtesy: Lakshmi Sharath

Very often, elephants are used to man, but it is advisable not to be on foot when you are in the forest. If you are on a safari, please be quiet and do not disturb the animals, and if you are taking photographs, flash is highly avoidable and do not overdo it! After all, it is their territory that we are invading; let us not intrude too much into their privacy.

A Western Reef Egret at Orange County, Kabini.

Some rare sightings included those of the cute Pratincole on the banks, and the fiery Osprey, which ‘dive-bombed’ a fish right in front of our eyes with her powerful talons. Apparently, we were also the first to sight the Grey Lapwing at Kabini (as per our Naturalist). These were the highlights of the morning, apart from regulars like Darters, Waders, Wooly-necks, Terns, Whistling ducks and so on. A lone Reef Egret, an unusual visitor to Kabini, was another rare sighting in the morning.

The Jeep Safari was the crowning glory. Apart from herds of Gaur, Elephants, Wild Dogs, Deer, Sambar, and Langurs which are normally sighted, the highlight of the safari was spotted on the way back to the resort. The park was to close by 6:30 PM and the light was fading. I had packed my long telephotos, tripods and other photo gear for the day.  Then, something fascinating happened.  Ashwat, my friend’s 12 year-old son, screamed “Leopard”, and the jeep screeched to a halt. There lay the magnificent beast, just 20 feet off the track, staring intently at the bushes, at what was possibly his mate, who was partially hidden by the bushes.  He was hardly bothered about us, and was intently focused on his mate, giving me ample time to unpack my photo gear, load my lens, mount my tripods and go bersek and shutter happy for the next 20 minutes, before the light began to fade and the driver had his 6:30 PM deadline to meet.

A Leopard Sighted at Orange County, Kabini.

Despite several visits, this place continues (and will continue) to cast its mystical charm. The service, the hospitality, the great food, and the amazing ambience, continue to provide us that magnificent experience, transporting us to an entirely new world; a world, where the bustle of the city seems a distant nightmare, a world where screeching tyres and honking monsters give way to soft chirps and soothing bird songs, where acrid smoke and exhaust fumes are replaced by the fragrance of wild flowers and water lilies, and where, amongst wonderful solace –Time Stands Still!

A Crested Serpent Eagle Perched on a Tree Branch. Picture Courtesy: Lakshmi Sharath.

We also chanced upon a Peacock trying to impress a Peahen with his characteristic dance. However, we were amused as we watched the peahen ignore him and walk away! Meanwhile, a scarlet Minivet seemed to be having a nice time, as the female of the species, yellow in colour and attractive, followed him into the foliage.

A Peacock Displaying its Plumage in Full Splendour. Picture Courtesy: Lakshmi Sharath.

Every day, in these forests, there is a drama waiting to unfold. While most of it is lost within the verdancy, it is up to us to look a little deeper and enjoy these wonderful moments.

The next morning, there were alarm calls from the Chital. We heard the cursing and barking of Langurs -  a sure sign of the presence of a predator in the area. Hence we eagerly waited for a while, and sure enough, a male leopard came out of the jungle, followed by a female. Both the cats crossed the jungle road in front of us.  It was interesting to watch the male leading with the female trailing behind in the typical Indian style; this is a common sight in Indian villages, where a man leads, followed by the woman. On our way back, we were fascinated by the sight of a White-bellied Woodpecker that landed on a tree in search of food. Its nest cavity with two chicks was on another tree.

White-bellied Woodpecker (Dryocopus javensis)

The next day, on an evening drive around the backwaters area, we were fortunate enough to pass a herd of elephant cows and two calves.

Asiatic Elephants (Elephas maximus)

Further up the road, we were lucky to spot a leopard perched on a tree. We stopped there for sometime to savour the scene.

I find that sighting an animal in the wild is one thing, but being able to effectively capture it on film is a combination of several factors that are not directly in one’s control. Hence, luck plays a crucial role in photography.

Leopard (Panthera pardus). Picture courtesy: Narendran M. M.

The next day morning, we took the same route in the hope of spotting a leopard. Soon a message was conveyed that a leopard was sighted on a tree. We rushed to the spot to find three vehicles full of photographers and tourists already present there. The leopard was 150 metres away on a tree and was facing away from us. There was a soft light and mist that enhanced the ambience.

The animal was in an awkward angle resting on a branch and facing away from us. Hearing the noise and chatter from the vehicles, it became uncomfortable and kept shifting its position every now and then. However, its angle and position in relation to ours did not offer us a view that was good enough to effectively capture it on film. Hence we shot a picture of it just to console ourselves that we had sighted a leopard.

A Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo)

I decided to head for the jungles this time! The minute I heard the word “Wildlife”, I was convinced of my destination. We then got down to planning our trip to Kabini. Images of sitting by the river, catching a glimpse of tuskers go about the forest, and a boat ride while taking pictures of the rich flora, many bird species and the evasive crocodile, flashed through my mind as I packed my bags. I also took my binoculars along, knowing that I did not want to miss out on the exotic bird watching experience.

A Black Drongo (Dicrurus macrocercus)

It was the month of November, and the weather was just perfect, making the short journey of 80kms from Mysore to Kabini pass by in a flash.  The scenery along the way was breathtaking; it was dramatic watching the sky change colours. I had recently read that Kabini had once been the private hunting lodge of the Mysore Maharaja. Today, it is one of the most popular wildlife sanctuaries in Karnataka. All this created a lot of expectations regarding the destination within me, and I must say the place has lived up to its reputation.

A Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea)

Our cottages opened to the glorious Kabini river, and the first thing we did was book ourselves for the Jungle and Elephant safaris and the boat ride. After a sumptuous lunch, armed with a bottle of water, sunglasses and not to forget, our cameras and binoculars, we headed for the boat ride, which we were told would last a couple of hours. As the weather was pleasant, and rains were not in sight, we had a lovely time. During the ride, I spotted a few Great Cormorants, White ibises and Grey herons. A couple of Ducks, the White Bellied and Black Drongo and a Kingfisher also caught my eye.

As we cruised along the winding river, we heard more birds, but alas, could not spot them. However, we did enjoy their sights and sounds immensely. I had read in a guide book that over 200 species of birds have made Kabini their home. I guess one needs to spend more time amidst the wilderness to soak it all in. The crocodiles seemed to have become shy and gone into hiding; I did not even catch a glimpse of them. However, we were in for a lovely surprise, as a herd of elephants came by to quench their thirst, completely unaffected by us just a few feet away.

The time spent sailing across the river was magical, and we did not want it to end. But as always, all good things must come to an end, and we were excited about our impending Jungle safari in the evening. As we wandered about the vast space, we saw wild boars and spotted deer who behaved in a manner that made us feel like we were intruding into their space.

However, in retrospect, our experience of wildlife at Kabini was well worth it.

Leopard (Panthera pardus)

A true ‘designer special’ species of wildlife, the Leopard is a very adaptive species and a stealthy opportunist, well-versed in the art of skulking and camouflage.

We sighted a Leopard once on the jungle path in Nagarhole. We quickly followed it in a van. As we reached this magnificent creature, it stepped aside and hid behind a single stalk of eupatorium.  It then disappeared like magic. This was an incredible ‘vanishing’ feat on the part of the Leopard. Only with great difficulty could I recognize the animal by the glint in his eyes through my tele lens.

Leopard (Panthera pardus)

Leopards generally choose twilight time to roam in the jungle when all objects lose their colour and become a monochromatic grey due to poor lighting. The animal at this time, quite fascinatingly, looks like an apparition on the move. Leopards are adept at climbing trees and take pleasure in this to enjoy a peaceful siesta, sprawled conveniently on a branch.  This is where they hide their kill from scavengers who could steal it from them. Here, they are also safe from enemies such as tigers and wild dogs. It is wonderful to watch a leopard carrying its kill using its claws; it first stealthily climbs a tree to deposit the kill safely on a branch and then lies majestically next to it – an incredible feat of strength, tenacity, and skill. A leopard sprawled over a branch naturally makes for an exciting spectacle of wildlife and is a ‘dream image’ to capture on film.

Leopards perched on trees are a regular sight in the Kabini forests. The presence of tigers or wild dogs is thought to contribute to this behavior. A leopard, when on a tree, is also not easily detected by co predators and prey, except for Langurs, Macaques, Peafowl, and Giant Squirrels. This position is also convenient as it affords a good vantage point for observation and ambush.

Leopard (Panthera pardus)

As we hit the road to Kabini, visions of the wild cat sighting kept haunting me, so much so, that as we checked into our room, the first thing I did was find out when the Jungle safari was to take place. Call me obsessed, but I was a man on a mission, and I could feel the excitement mount within me. The Manager at the front office desk told us he would call and keep us posted on the next Jungle safari and asked us to proceed to have lunch. Just as I was finishing my cup of coffee, a hotel staff came beckoning us to get ready for the safari that was about to begin in the next half an hour.

Leopard (Panthera pardus)

Like a man who was possessed, I dragged my family to our cottage, giving them less than ten minutes to change and get to the starting point of the safari. As we boarded the vehicle for the safari, I enquired with our guide, aka naturalist, about how often wild cats and tuskers are spotted and what the chances of us sighting one were. He merely smiled, and turned to focus on the path ahead. About ten minutes into the ride, our guide pointed to the bushes and signalled for us to remain silent. I didn’t know where to look, till suddenly, a male Leopard crossed the road behind the jeep, leaving me breathless. I was very excited; I could not think straight, and therefore, didn’t capture this wild beauty on film. In a matter of seconds, the Leopard disappeared into the thicket, leaving me awestruck by the sight.

Wildlife, I have realised, is full of surprises, and one is rewarded when least expected. I returned to the cottage with a sheepish grin and a victorious look. What an exciting trip this had been!

Khedda Operation

Surrounded by the pristine forests of the Kakanakote range, Kabini has its own heritage tag, as it was once the hunting ground of the Mysore Maharaja. Later in the evening, as the wood cracked, the smoke curled up, and dialogues lingered over conservation, I asked Naturalist Vikram Nanjappa to tell me more about the Kabini of yesteryears. And that is when I heard about the Khedda operation, a spectacle that had been in vogue since the Wodeyar dynasty in the 19th century.

A Visual Treat

“Khedda essentially is a process where elephants were captured and then trained for war or for domestic use,” explains the Naturalist. He adds that the Mysore Khedda was largely borrowed from practices followed in the Eastern and Northern regions of India. “Drummers and beaters would drive an entire herd of wild elephants into a wooded enclosure where domestic elephants called Kumkis were used as decoys to calm them,” adds the Naturalist. The trapped wounded elephants were then lassoed, tied to a tree, and sometimes, even starved until they became weak enough to be trained.

History and art have shown evidences of this practice from Chandragupta Maurya’s period in the records of the Greek Ambassador, Megasthenes. He writes about how female elephants were used as decoys to lure male elephants into enclosures or deep trenches.

The Mysore Khedda, however, enjoyed royal patronage, and had the attraction of a river drive as well. “About 36 kheddas were done in the Kakanakote forest and the river drive was started by a Briton, GP Sanderson, in honour of the visit of the Duke of Russia in the 19th century,” according to the Naturalist. The Kheddas, which lasted for an entire century, ended in 1971, and were a visual fest like the earlier operations.

“I had tears in my eyes,” says Kamakshi Ananthakrishna, wife of the former Additional Chief Secretary of the Karnataka Government who saw the last Khedda. The drummers drove all the wild elephants into the water as the domestic elephants surrounded them. They were subsequently driven into an enclosure, and were caught using ropes. It was distressing to hear the cries of the elephants that fell into the pits. Today, the Khedda site, interestingly, is submerged under water after the construction of the Kabini dam. The elephants now enjoy a clear path to travel from the Nagarhole forest to the Bandipur stretch. Their only intruders are ‘shutterbugs’ like us who will simply not let them be.